Sir Paul McCartney, Mother Theresa and Amy Winehouse photographed by Mr. Vadukul
“The fashion industry is ‘racist’, fashion magazines are racist” -Dame Vivienne Westwood, Fashion Designer
“Women of colour are not a trend. That’s the bottom line…In some instances, black models are being sidelined by major modelling agencies.” -Naomi Campbell, Supermodel
“Whenever I ask to use a black model I am given excuses such as ‘black models are not aspirational in some markets’ or ‘they do not reflect the brands values.’ Normally, however, no reason is given. By my own inaction, I am guilty of allowing racism to be normalized and accepted in this business. This has made me deeply sad and increasingly angry.” – Nick Knight, Fashion Photographer
THE 44TH PRESIDENT
(NY) They always say ‘let your work speak for itself’. A significant number of people think US President Obama is dangerously naïve; a naïve president in naïve times. The moment he was chosen by the American people to be its 44th president, he took upon himself a great challenge and a burden of responsibility. He was elected and, now, has to be given a chance to prove himself through his work.
I don’t really care about his politics but when he won, he took over a position of power from the last 43 white presidents of a multi-colored nation. His victory made me, like the rest of the world, see the future: our future as a minority.
Obama’s victory is very much like Halle Berry winning the first major acting award for a non-white person in 82 years of the Oscars. Her victory started the outpour of non-white actor and director winners in the years to follow.
People like Obama and Berry, and even film director Ang Lee (the first Asian and non-Caucasian director to win an oscar in 82 years), have opened the doors for young minorities who want to grow up as a great thespian, a great leader, or a great visionary. Simply put, whether or not you like Obama’s leadership or Berry’s acting, it doesn’t matter. They already made history.
SOUTHEAST ASIAN BOY
I have always wanted to be a photographer, a really good one. I made the life decision in my teens. But growing up in the early 90′s up until now, when I ask you who’s the top iconic fashion photographers on the top of your head?
Without Google or Wikipedia‘s assistance, you’ll probably say Steven Klein? Am I hearing Steven Meisel? The infamous Uncle Terry Richardson, perhaps? How about Uncle Bruce Weber? Herb Ritts? Irving Penn? Helmut Newton? Does Patrick Demarchelier float your boat?
I might say the same names, why are their names top of mind? Why are they household names?
The one thing in common about them is that they are all relatively great at what they do. They are Photography gods. Oh, I forgot to mention, one other common thing about them. they’re all Caucasian men.
What does that mean for a South East Asian boy like me who grew up in the 90′s and deliriously dreamed to be one of them one day? Maybe just to come close to their success and not exactly be them.
How can I convince myself it’s possible? Am I reaching for the impossible? Is it a color-blind industry or am I just dangerously naïve?
Getting to the top of the fashion food chain, will it solely be based on your work? One thing for sure, the journey of minorities in Hollywood and the White House have already found their champions, for the fashion photography world it seems like the journey is still a long way home.
THE VADUKUL LAND
I walked into this minimalist post-production studio just below Mr. Vadukul’s Mid-East townhouse in Manhattan, just a day after his photoshoot with actor Jude Law. I found out he lives next door to one of the Coen Brothers and I was greeted by a wall size framed image of one of his works: a group portrait of Robert Downey Jr., Sting and Hugh Jackman in one crisp black and white shot, Vadukul style.
After a brief tour I noticed that photography is only one layer of this man’s complex life and work.
One of the most stylish photographer I know just made me a tea, smoked a cigar and showed me some of his travels with friends and lovely family. I was treated to behind the scenes of his shoots and some unreleased personal works, I’m in Vadukul land for an entire afternoon. I love this blog!
NAIROBI
English is not my first language, I am a minority for many reasons. When I told Max that one of the reasons I look up to him is because he is one of the few portrait and fashion photography top guns who is non-white. I also mentioned how much I admire that he still has a unique vision that bolsters his success and staying power. Max immediately told me he didn’t want to play the “race card”, the “victim card”, or the “sympathy card”, since he never experienced any racism that impacted his career as a photographer when he was starting. Mr. Vadukul is, definitely, a class act.
But I wanted to play the “racism-in-fashion-awareness-card”, quoting the iconic photographer Nick Knight, :“By my own inaction, I am guilty of allowing racism to be normalized and accepted in this business.”
Notable names in fashion or portrait photography like Koto Bolofo, Walter Chin, and Martin Schoeller are only a handful of minorities that had made their mark but still not as icons. I’m sure they have their war stories about racism.
In a Frieze Magazine interview in 1992, a man commented about the fashion world as “a very immature business… It’s for young people—your audience is sixteen to twenty-year-old girls… Fashion photography can swallow you up with its champagne and caviar lifestyle.” His name is Max Vadukul.
Born to an Indian parents in Nairobi, educated in England, Vadukul was discovered by Japanese fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto in 1984. While living in Paris, he began taking photographs for The Face magazine as well as French, American and Italian editions of Vogue in the early 80s. He photographed more portraits for The New Yorker than the legendary Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon. He shot at least a dozen covers for Rolling Stone magazine and has also worked for Italian Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, i-D, Chloé and Armani.
A documentary called Self-Portrait: Max Vadukul in 2000 was produced by the National Geographic Channel,
Now, he resides and work in New York City with his wife, Nicoletta Santoro, International Fashion Director at Large of VOGUE China , and their two children: Alex and Eloise.
Max Vadukul is an important part of history more than we know. This interview is a celebration of a man who has inspired people like me. Every time I look at his powerful and unforgettable portraits, I know that I will be ok.
GO GET SIR PAUL
LOPE NAVO: Thank you for having time for a one-on-one interview with me Max, I literally grew up with your work, I can tell from your portfolio that your a traveller like me and so far I can say I can speak 3 different languages fluently, Im interested to know how many languages do you speak? And how many countries in your lifetime have you lived in?
MAX VADUKUL: I can speak English, French, Italian and Gujarati, and they have all been learnt by living in France or England or married to an Italian or by birth. So I can navigate a lot of land, ha ha . I have lived in Kenya, England, France, Italy, and USA, in my lifetime so far who knows which one is next .
NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite cities in the world? and why?
VADUKUL: 1. London, it’s so well proportioned and so rich in what a city can offer.
2. New York, it’s the most energetic and efficient city there is.
3. Istanbul, it’s steeped in history and the food is amazing.
NAVO: I looove Turkish food and I pigged out on it when I lived in the middle east on my early 20′s where I actually discovered my love for travel and portrait photography, what is your most unforgettable portrait photo shoot and why?
VADUKUL: I think it would have to be Paul McCartney, I was in India on holiday and had not completed the vacation when Rolling Stone called me and asked if I can come back to NYC to shoot the cover, I was reluctant as I did not want to leave my family alone, but I remember my kids saying “Get out of here!! Go get Sir Paul”, I did left and when I met Sir Paul, I quivered, I knew I was standing in front of a Beatle, it’s strange but it really was amazing, the highlight was Paul telling me about how the Beatles got to india, a long story!
NELSON MANDELA
NAVO: What is it like photographing another historical legend like Mr. Nelson Mandela?
VADUKUL: Mr. Mandela is everything I had expected, a prince. Charming all the way through and a statesman. I loved to be next to him even for a short time, the meeting happened in Monte Carlo in a 5 star hotel and his room was occupied by his family and Bono, when you photograph some one like Nelson Mandela it’s not work for me it was a chance to touch history.
NAVO: Who would you consider a visionary in the photography history?
VADUKUL: Richard Avedon
NAVO: There are thousands of new photographers each year and hundreds actually make it to the magazines and ad campaigns, are you following any of the new generation of photographer’s work? Anyone that stands out for you?
VADUKUL: Thousands yes but I only remember Nick Knight and Steven Meisel, kings have been replaced by echoes, sad to say.
NAVO: I have to say Richard Avedon, Nick Knight and Steven Meisel have inspired many generations of photographers including me, what inspires a Max Vadukul?
VADUKUL: I am wide open to life and its possibilities, inspiration comes from anywhere its infinite. I love history books, strong news journalism like the Guardian Newspaper, nothing fluffy, so for me bring it on. I am a good editor of what fits my frame.
AFRICA
NAVO: Whats the most iconic images that you remember while growing up Max?
VADUKUL: A lot of album art created by Hipnosis. I was really excited by the album art from Pink Floyd to Led Zep, the first time I saw Jumping Jack flash on tv, the video was mind-blowing with the dark guitar riff, the war paint makeup on Mick, unforgettable.
NAVO: What’s your favorite piece of artwork you own?
VADUKUL: In my home I own one piece of photography I bought for my wife, a photograph by Joseph Koudelka, a black dog in b&w sits on my mantel piece.
NAVO: Do you remember how old where you the first time you used a camera?
VADUKUL: I was about ten and I used my father’s Pentax Spotmatic.
NAVO: Why did you become a photographer?
VADUKUL: So many life experiences affect you, like my father taking me on safari’s on the east coast of Africa with a car loaded with telescopes and photographic gears. I got to see a lot of land and he was always taking pictures, so I think the seeds were there. Why?…well I love photography all of it was such a passion that there was no other choice plus it gave me a chance to be independent from tradition. I think I was 13 years old and I knew this is my destiny.
ALEX, ELOISE & NICOLETTA
NAVO: What does your love ones think about your craft and your profession?
VADUKUL: My parents were very proud when I had finally made it, but they were very grounded. I have two 20-year-old twins Alex, Eloise and my wife Nicoletta they look at everything and will be very harsh on the critique, no ego inflating stuff and we enjoy looking at the work, but it’s not an obsession for them they have their own lives, I think they know it’s very tough, I would say one of the most difficult professions to hold, so each to his own.
NAVO: What is your favorite part in being a photographer Max?
VADUKUL: Just to get my images published the way I see it is a thrill and honestly I love every aspect of my work, I simply love it .
NAVO: What do you think of the disappearance of a lot of magazines (367 magazines closed in 2009) for the past years?
VADUKUL: Too many magazines and it got to be like the Cane frogs in Australia just had to be a cull, my eyes would go blind at a magazine store so many and so much rubbish, I think less is more and quality will stand. All the echoes and hanger-ons will eventually die.
WHITE TIGER
NAVO: What’s an ideal regular vacation for you?
VADUKUL: Vacation for me is decompression time. I simply veg out, usually just by the ocean, reading, scuba diving, usually with the family.
NAVO: What’s the last book you’ve read lately and what is it about?
VADUKUL: “White Tiger “ by Aravind Adiga, it’s a dark comedy about a ‘social entrepreneur’ who committed murder. Set in modern India (Bangalore) and it’s a roller coaster of a book, very unsettling and dark. One of the best books I have read and I’m sure they will produce a movie out of this.
NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite films and why?
VADUKUL: 1. ‘Wrath of God’ by Werner Herzog (1972), it’s the search for man’s lust for gold and a journey into a hopeless void, stunning photography. 2. ‘Peeping Tom’ by Michael Powell (1960), my favorite director because its one of the most disturbing films upto this day, a snuff movie stylized, destroyed the directors career. 3. ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ by Sir David Lean (1962), it’s a remarkable study of a perplexing character. I love all of David Lean’s films.
NAVO: I have to say the film Lawrence of Arabia is one of the reasons I was intrigued by the arab culture and I enjoyed living in the cities of Riyadh, Dammam and Dubai. Who’s your top 3 favorite Hollywood Icons?
VADUKUL: Clint Eastwood , Betty Davis, and Alfred Hitchcock.
NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite records of all time Max?
VADUKUL: 1. The Wall, Pink Floyd, 2. Pat Metheny, Offramp, 3. Exile On Main Street, Rolling Stones.
CHARLES DARWIN
NAVO: What can you recommend to the young photographers who wants to make a living doing what you do?
VADUKUL: I do not wish to be didactic, but I would say you have one life just be yourself and do it your way, you can’t be pleasing everyone.
NAVO: If anybody have told me months ago, years ago that one day I’ll be interviewing you, I would say they’re nuts, and now here we are and I want to fish, what do you think about my work? As a young photographer, and as a writer/blogger?
VADUKUL: Well Mr. Navo your website is clean, clear and easy to navigate, clearly you are not a bullshitter, you say it the way it is and your work is to be praised and lifted. It’s a big effort so I think to get to that level of simplicity, you have a terrific website. I enjoyed your interviews and your questions, your life is only as good as the questions you ask, remember that. As a young photographer, I was showing your work to my daughter Eloïse who is 20 and she was like “wow, this guy is really good” and I thought that you have an eye and it’s up to you to be a one-off, so try to work on that.
NAVO: You have photographed a significant numbers of historical figures, if you’ll get a chance to photograph a dead historical figure, who will it be and why?
VADUKUL: Well I’m going to go off track here, I would have loved to have photographed Charles Darwin on his exploration to the Galápagos on the H.M.S. Beagle. Because the sights and the discovery he made would have made an incredible exhibition and because his insight into evolution is the most important discovery since we knew the earth was not flat.
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www.maxvadukul.com/
www.art-dept.com/artists/vadukul/
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Vadukul
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Books
• Max: Photographs by Max Vadukul. New York: Callaway Publications, 2000.
• Crazy Horse. New York: Piccolo Press, 2001.
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Related Entry: http://naiveboy.com/2010/01/15/mert-alas-a-fashion-icon-interview-by-navo/
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info@navostudios.com
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