THE MINORITY REPORTS: THE 12 MOST IMPORTANT MINORITIES IN FASHION by Navo

“Almost always,

the creative dedicated minority

has made the world better.”

-Martin Luther King, Jr.

4.52%

(NY) What it’s like to be an Asian in America? How it feels to be a minority in a “free” society which promises freedom of race, sexual orientation, religion, politics, and opinions.  Isn’t it surprising that in the modern civilization, in a year like 2010, there is no african-american equivalent of a great american ‘white’ designer or even a great american ‘white’ photographer? Why fashion photography are astonishingly dominated by white men for centuries?

The white majority has always the control over the opinions, voice and foundations of the fashion industry for more than a century in America and the rest of the world.

Vogue US magazine, sadly, has been one of that foundations, it claims to be the ‘fashion bible of the world’, reaching out to the international markets including the two biggest populations in the world, China (19.5% of world population) and India (17.3%) compared to US (4.52%). The possibility that Vogue US magazine’s biggest consumers are non-whites, europeans don’t care about Vogue US, they have better more relevant ‘fashion’ magazines. Considering there are local equivalents in each key countries like the Vogue India edition and Vogue China edition, when I was living in South East Asia and the Middle East, most people who subscribes to the local fashion magazines, almost always subscribes to their international counterparts to get the direct source of inspirations. So you can expect that a woman from Mumbai is spending her hard-earned money for a copy of Vogue India and a Vogue US as well.

LESS THAN 20 WOMEN OF COLOR,

OUT OF 1,416 US VOGUE MAGAZINE COVERS

Vogue US is created on the foundation of white affluence and wealth. The top positions in Vogue US are inherited, not earned. A truth that Anna Wintour proudly and gleefully admitted in the 2009 documentary ‘September Issue’ ( a rebuttal for the 2006 Academy award nominated ‘Devil Wears Prada’). Anna Wintour’s father (Charles Wintour, editor of the London Evening Standard) literally handed her over the job on a silver platter, and that has been the picture perfect ‘white’ scenario for centuries, not only in fashion, but most other multi-billion dollar industries in the world, keeping the more hardworking, more talented, more competent ‘REAL PEOPLE’ away from the top positions for more than a century. Since it was founded in 1892, over 118 years of Vogue US –meaning, in 1,416 white covers published lead by a solid succession of ’7 white editors-in-chief’, less than 20 (out of 1,416 covers) are women of color. NO ASIAN beauty (celebrity or supermodel) have ever graced Vogue US’ cover even in the modern civilization in 2010.

DEAR NAVO

So I have been absent for a hot minute in Naiveboy.com, I appreciate all your emails and messages in Facebook, letting me know some of your reactions and to my surprise, some admirations. Some are even so passionate and demanding me to post more articles more often. Some asking why I haven’t posted as regular as before. You see folks, writing (or rambling) is not my day job, and with all the Ivy League grammar police complaining about my english, I think I’ll be keeping my day job for a while. For those who care to know, I also take pictures, of people (sometimes with clothes), I am also working on my first novel that is in its first draft (hopefully will be on its second draft soon). But for all it’s worth I miss you too!

An excerpt on a message of one of my 4,700 friends in Facebook I received just last week: “Dear Navo, You may be the only real authentic voice out there in the world today – Speaking up for those who do not have a voice of courage and conviction like your own… Love your style and your approach… Mark my words – when this is all said and done history will remember you as a pioneer of ‘Change’.” S.S. (New York & Paris based Creative Director and photographer)

I believe that the true ‘Pioneers of Change’ here are the people on my Top 12 Minorities, like Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, they are the world’s best fashion photographers living today, shooting almost all of the blue chip campaigns and editorials in every single high-end magazines and still using their power and vision to promote CHANGE, like the recent historical Givenchy Fall/ Winter 2010/2011 Ad Campaigns shot by the duo M&M.

PIONEERS OF CHANGE IN FASHION

As a minority I believe we need to be more sensitive to other minorities when ‘the majority’ aren’t.

Empathize.

The Asian-Americans, Native Americans, African-Americans, Mexican-Americans, Arab-Americans, American Jews, Irish-Americans, women, immigrants, homosexuals, Muslims, Buddhists, Atheists, third parties, the homeless and the disabled, anyone who doesn’t fit in the cookie cutter mold that a majority has created.

I exactly know how you feel, I am one of you,  and you are not alone, I know the feeling of being vastly outnumbered, the feeling of being discriminated, the feeling of being stereotyped, the feeling of being an underdog, a token, a dark horse in a community, in a society, in an industry.

We, as minorities, share a very powerful bond.

Who could have predicted a century ago that names like Alas, Yamamoto, Kebede, Gurung, Hamza or Slimane would be the new voices and innovators in the Fashion industry?

People always ask me the ethos behind talking about minorities in fashion. Why promote hate? Why not just let people’s work speak for themselves? Am I looking for sympathy and controversy?

These are the least of the tongue-lashing questions I receive on a daily basis.

If and when I’m in the mood, I tell them in my own simple way that: “I want to show minorities all over the world that they are not alone. True, most of them are not (yet) as widely celebrated household names like fashion’s white majority, but the 12 people on my list represent themselves with greatness, integrity, and grace regardless of the walls and barriers they have to chip down to get to where they are now.”

“They may not be as privileged by birthright, but that didn’t stop them from claiming their places in history, in their own industry and in the respect of their peers.”

Ladies and Gentlemen meet the true Pioneers of Change in Fashion.

1. Mert Alas

When I interviewed Mert Alas just last April, I asked him what advise can he give to the young men and women all over the world who wants to be in a caucasian dominated industry. He gracefully replied “Be yourself and work for your dream. If you are good, you will be noticed.” (http://naiveboy.com/2010/01/15/mert-alas-a-fashion-icon-interview-by-navo/)

A Turkish-born fashion photographer, the half of the dynamic duo of  the world’s best fashion photographers working today. With their trademark of sophisticated, powerful, crisp, innovative and iconic images, they are two of the most influential people in the fashion industry, and never failed to use it to support the unheard voice of the creative minorities.

On their belt are magazines such as Vogue Paris, Vogue Italia, Vogue USA, W Magazine, Pop Magazine, Numero and Arena Homme Plus, blue chip clients such as Louis Vuitton, Missoni, Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Givenchy, Gucci, Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent and beauties like the iconic Madonna, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bündchen, Björk, Charlotte Rampling, Kylie Minogue, and Sophie Ellis-Bextor among others.

2. Issey Miyake 三宅 一生

Born in Hiroshima, Japan.  A Hiroshima 1945 Bombing survivor at the age of seven. A student of designers Laroche and Givenchy.

Known for his technology-driven clothing designs that has a consistent balance between tradition and innovation, handcrafts and new technology. One of the most influential fashion designer in the history of the world.  A wonder and inspiration to the international fashion community since 1970.

3. Yohji Yamamoto 山本 耀司

I used to live right above the Y3 branch in Soho and I have been one of this legend’s biggest fan.

An internationally known fashion designer based in Tokyo and Paris. One of the most influential fashion designer in the world today. Known for an avant-garde spirit in his clothing, frequently creating designs far removed from current trends. His signature oversized silhouettes in black often feature drapery in varying textures. Yohji Yamamoto Inc. reported in 2007 that the sales of Yamamoto’s two main lines average above $100 million annually.

Born in Tokyo, Yamamoto graduated from Keio University with a degree in law in 1966.

4. Rei Kawakubo 川久保 玲

A media shy Japanese-born fashion designer. Founder of Comme des Garçons in 1973. An iconoclast, considered a “designer’s designer” for her innovative and fearless convictions and the great influence to generations of designers all over the world such as the Belgian Martin Margiela and Ann Demeulemeester, the Austrian designer Helmut Lang and her  former apprentice Junya Watanabe.

Untrained as a fashion designer herself, studied fine arts and literature at Keio University. After graduation, Kawakubo worked in a textile company and later as a freelance stylist in 1967.

Rei’s designs specialises in anti-fashion, austere, sometimes deconstructed garments, always challenging the established notions of beauty.

photo: Mariano Vivanco

5. Nicola Formichetti

The newly appointed creative director of Thierry Mugler, fashion director and close friend of popstar Lady Gaga, fashion director of Vogue Hommes Japan,  Contributing fashion editor of V Magazine, V Man, Dazed & Confused, Another, Another Man and the fashion director of Uniqlo.

As one of the most influential and celebrated fashion stylist/director in the world today, his clients ranges from Alexander McQueen, Y3, Giorgio Armani, Prada, D&G, Missoni, Costume National, Iceberg, Topman, H&M, Max Mara, Adidas, Nike, Puma,  Levis and Issey Miyake.

Born in Japan to an Italian father and a Japanese mother.  Grew up between Italy and Japan resulting in his internationally eclectic unique style, both modern and traditional, both Eastern and European.

6. Tyson Beckford

An American-born supermodel paved the way for up-and-coming male models of colour when he was recruited by Ralph Lauren as the image model for the company’s Polo line of male sportswear in 1991 and  for Ralph Lauren’s Polo Sport fragrance in 1993. Changing history as he graced the covers of Vogue, GQ, Details, Men’s Health, and The New York Times among others.

Tyson was born to a Jamaican father of Panamanian descent and Chinese/American mother. He grew up in New York and Jamaica.

7. Stephen Gan

Born and raised in the Philippines, Gan arrived in New York City when he was 18 and changing his life and fashion history altogether.
Creative director at Harper’s Bazaar, co-founder of Visionaire, editor-in-chief of V Magazine and Vman magazine, and the director of Dream Project, a creative powerhouse, with advertising clients such as Calvin Klein, Dior, Fendi, Shiseido, Olay Colour Europe, Tommy Hilfiger, D&G and Missoni.

8. Liya Kebede

Ethiopian-born supermodel who is only one of the less than 20 minorities that appeared in the cover of US Vogue twice. In 2008 was featured on one of the four covers of Vogue Italia‘s historical all Black Issue.  Kebede’s big break came when Tom Ford asked her for an exclusive contract for his Gucci Fall/Winter 2000 fashion show.

Kebede’s popularity in the fashion industry sky-rocketed when she appeared on the cover of the May 2002 edition of Paris Vogue which dedicated the entire issue to her and later gracing the covers of Italian, Japanese, American, French and Spanish Vogue, V, Flair, i-D and Time’s Style & Design, ad campaigns such as Gap, Yves Saint-Laurent, Victoria’s Secret, Emanuel Ungaro, Tommy Hilfiger, Revlon, Dolce & Gabbana, Escada and Louis Vuitton.

The eleventh-highest-paid top model in the world in 2007 was born and raised in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia.

9.  Hedi Slimane

A world renowned French fashion designer and one of my favorite photographers living today is of Tunisian تونس, Italian-Brazilian origins. He studied political science, and Art History at the École du Louvre, and was also educated as a tailor.

Hedi’s resume includes, Collections and Art Director at the house of Yves Saint Laurent in 1997, was invited to create his own label within the Gucci Group, creative designer for  Christian Dior‘s men’s clothing in 2000, Creative Director for Christian Dior men’s fragrances, including Eau Noire, Cologne Blanche, Bois d’Argent, Dior Homme, and Dior Homme Intense.

As a photographer Hedi is famous for taking natural photos with minimal makeup or no photoshop at all. He has started a large amount of careers in the model industry.

Hedi Slimane lives between Paris and Los Angeles.

10. Prabal Gurung

Born in Singapore and raised in the Kingdom of Nepal’s Kathmandu, his career started to take off when he apprenticed at several local production/fashion houses and designed with Manish Arora while studying at New Delhi’s National Institute of Fashion Technology, India.

One of the most celebrated new voices in New York fashion, has dressed everybody from Michelle Obama to Demi Moore. Prabal Gurung’s collection includes sculpted gowns and other intricate designs.

In the past he has worked for Cynthia Rowley and Bill Blass, but his polished and sophisticated signature style could easily land him a job at any of the classic labels.

Photo: Mert & Marcus (Interview, Oct 2010). Styled by Karl Templer.

11. Naomi Campbell

A British supermodel with an unprecedented successful modelling career for a ‘non-white’ model, one of the most recognisable and in-demand models of her generation. A part of the “Big Six”, along Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington, Linda Evangelista and Kate Moss, and “The Trinity”, alongside Turlington and Evangelista during the supermodel era. Naomi has appeared on more than 500 magazine covers (such as Vogue Italia, Japanese Vogue, Elle, i-D, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar, Interview, W, Vanity Fair and GQ) and has enjoyed an unmatched runway career longevity.

In August 1988, she appeared on the cover of Vogue Paris as the publication’s first black cover girl, after friend and mentor, Yves St. Laurent, threatened to withdraw all of his advertising from the publication after it refused to place Campbell, or any black model, on its cover. Naomi is also the second black model to appear on the cover of Vogue UK.

In 2008 was featured on one of the four covers of Vogue Italia‘s historical all Black Issue and in 2009, Campbell gained a lot of attention when she spoke of the “racist” fashion industry.

12. Sharif Hamza

Is one of the very very few ‘non-white’ fashion photographers who have ever shot for Fashion industry bibles such as Vogue Paris, Vogue Italy, Vogue Russia, LOVE , and Dazed & Confused among others.

A former first-assistant to the legendary fashion photographer Steven Klein, Sharif coming from a Filipino and Egyptian origins has proven to be a force to be reckoned with and one of the true Pioneers of Change in Fashion in my list.

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Related Entry: http://naiveboy.com/2010/04/27/white-supremacy-the-most-racist-fashion-magazines-in-2010-by-navo/

________________________

info@navostudios.com

http://navostudios.com/

©2009 Dangerously Naive

©2009 Naiveboy.com

MAX VADUKUL: PHOTOGRAPHING HISTORY by Navo

Sir Paul McCartney, Mother Theresa and Amy Winehouse photographed by Mr. Vadukul

“The fashion industry is ‘racist’, fashion magazines are racist” -Dame Vivienne Westwood, Fashion Designer

“Women of colour are not a trend. That’s the bottom line…In some instances, black models are being sidelined by major modelling agencies.” -Naomi Campbell, Supermodel

“Whenever I ask to use a black model I am given excuses such as ‘black models are not aspirational in some markets’ or ‘they do not reflect the brands values.’ Normally, however, no reason is given. By my own inaction, I am guilty of allowing racism to be normalized and accepted in this business. This has made me deeply sad and increasingly angry.” – Nick Knight, Fashion Photographer

THE 44TH PRESIDENT

(NY) They always say ‘let your work speak for itself’.   A significant number of people think US President Obama is dangerously naïve; a naïve president in naïve times. The moment he was chosen by the American people to be its 44th president, he took upon himself a great challenge and a burden of responsibility.   He was elected and, now, has to be given a chance to prove himself through his work.

I don’t really care about his politics but when he won, he took over a position of power from the last 43 white presidents of a multi-colored nation.  His victory made me, like the rest of the world, see the future: our future as a minority.

Obama’s victory is very much like Halle Berry winning the first major acting award for a non-white person in 82 years of the Oscars.  Her victory started the outpour of non-white actor and director winners in the years to follow.

People like Obama and Berry, and even film director Ang Lee (the first Asian and non-Caucasian director to win an oscar in 82 years), have opened the doors for young minorities who want to grow up as a great thespian, a great leader, or a great visionary.  Simply put, whether or not you like Obama’s leadership or Berry’s acting, it doesn’t matter. They already made history.

SOUTHEAST ASIAN BOY

I have always wanted to be a photographer, a really good one.  I made the life decision in my teens.  But growing up in the early 90′s up until now, when I ask you who’s the top iconic fashion photographers on the top of your head?

Without Google or Wikipedia‘s assistance, you’ll probably say Steven Klein? Am I hearing Steven Meisel? The infamous Uncle Terry Richardson, perhaps? How about Uncle Bruce Weber? Herb Ritts? Irving Penn? Helmut Newton? Does Patrick Demarchelier float your boat?

I might say the same names, why are their names top of mind? Why are they household names?

The one thing in common about them is that they are all relatively great at what they do.  They are Photography gods.  Oh, I forgot to mention, one other common thing about them. they’re all Caucasian men.

What does that mean for a South East Asian boy like me who grew up in the 90′s  and deliriously dreamed to be one of them one day? Maybe just to come close to their success and not exactly be them.

How can I convince myself it’s possible? Am I reaching for the impossible? Is it a color-blind industry or am I just dangerously naïve?

Getting to  the top of the fashion food chain, will it solely be based on your work? One thing for sure, the journey of minorities in Hollywood and the White House have already found their champions, for the fashion photography world it seems like the journey is still a long way home.

THE VADUKUL LAND

I walked into this minimalist post-production studio just below Mr. Vadukul’s Mid-East townhouse in Manhattan, just a day after his photoshoot with actor Jude Law. I found out he lives next door to one of the Coen Brothers and I was greeted by a wall size framed image of one of his works: a group portrait of  Robert Downey Jr., Sting and Hugh Jackman in one crisp black and white shot, Vadukul style.

After a brief tour I noticed that photography is only one layer of this man’s complex life and work.

One of the most stylish photographer I know just made me a tea, smoked a cigar and showed me some of his travels with friends and lovely family.  I was treated to behind the scenes of his shoots and some unreleased personal works, I’m in Vadukul land for an entire afternoon.   I love this blog!

NAIROBI

English is not my first language, I am a minority for many reasons.  When I told Max that one of the reasons I look up to him is because he is one of the few portrait and fashion photography top guns who is non-white.  I also mentioned how much I admire that he still has a unique vision that bolsters his success and staying power. Max immediately told me he didn’t want to play the “race card”, the “victim card”, or the “sympathy card”, since he never experienced any racism that impacted his career as a photographer when he was starting. Mr. Vadukul is, definitely, a class act.

But I wanted to play the “racism-in-fashion-awareness-card”, quoting the iconic photographer Nick Knight, :“By my own inaction, I am guilty of allowing racism to be normalized and accepted in this business.”

Notable names in fashion or portrait photography like Koto Bolofo, Walter Chin, and Martin Schoeller are only a handful of minorities that had made their mark but still not as icons.  I’m sure they have their war stories about racism.

In a Frieze Magazine interview in 1992, a man commented about the fashion world as “a very immature business… It’s for young people—your audience is sixteen to twenty-year-old girls… Fashion photography can swallow you up with its champagne and caviar lifestyle.” His name is Max Vadukul.

Born to an Indian parents in Nairobi, educated in England, Vadukul was discovered by Japanese fashion designer, Yohji Yamamoto in 1984.  While living in Paris, he began taking photographs for The Face magazine as well as  French, American and Italian editions of Vogue in the early 80s.  He photographed more portraits for The New Yorker than the legendary Helmut Newton and Richard Avedon.  He shot at least a dozen covers for Rolling Stone magazine and has also worked for Italian Vogue, Vogue Hommes International, i-D, Chloé and Armani.

A documentary called Self-Portrait: Max Vadukul in 2000 was produced by the National Geographic Channel,

Now, he resides and work in New York City with his wife, Nicoletta Santoro, International Fashion Director at Large of VOGUE China , and their two children: Alex and Eloise.

Max Vadukul is an important part of history more than we know. This interview is a celebration of a man who has inspired people like me.  Every time I look at his powerful and unforgettable portraits, I know that I will be ok.

GO GET SIR PAUL

LOPE NAVO: Thank you for having time for a one-on-one interview with me Max, I literally grew up with your work, I can tell from your portfolio that your a traveller like me and so far I can say I can speak 3 different languages fluently, Im interested to know how many languages do you speak? And how many countries in your lifetime have you lived in?
MAX VADUKUL: I can speak English, French, Italian and Gujarati, and they have all been learnt by living in France or England or married to an Italian or by birth. So I can navigate a lot of land, ha ha . I have lived in Kenya, England, France, Italy, and USA, in my lifetime so far who knows which one is next .

NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite cities in the world? and why?
VADUKUL: 1. London, it’s so well proportioned and so rich in what a city can offer.
2. New York, it’s the most energetic and efficient city there is.
3. Istanbul, it’s steeped in history and the food is amazing.

NAVO: I looove Turkish food and I pigged out on it when I lived in the middle east on my early 20′s where I actually discovered my love for travel and portrait photography, what is your most unforgettable portrait photo shoot and why?
VADUKUL: I think it would have to be Paul McCartney, I was in India on holiday and had not completed the vacation when Rolling Stone called me and asked if I can come back to NYC to shoot the cover, I was reluctant as I did not want to leave my family alone, but I remember my kids saying “Get out of here!! Go get Sir Paul”, I did left and when I met Sir Paul, I quivered, I knew I was standing in front of a Beatle, it’s strange but it really was amazing, the highlight was Paul telling me about how the Beatles got to india, a long story!

NELSON MANDELA

NAVO: What is it like photographing another historical legend like Mr. Nelson Mandela?
VADUKUL: Mr. Mandela is everything I had expected, a prince. Charming all the way through and a statesman. I loved to be next to him even for a short time, the meeting happened in Monte Carlo in a 5 star hotel and his room was occupied by his family and Bono, when you photograph some one like Nelson Mandela it’s not work for me it was a chance to touch history.

NAVO: Who would you consider a visionary in the photography history?
VADUKUL: Richard Avedon

NAVO: There are thousands of new photographers each year and hundreds actually make it to the magazines and ad campaigns, are you following any of the new generation of photographer’s work? Anyone that stands out for you?
VADUKUL: Thousands yes but I only remember Nick Knight and Steven Meisel, kings have been replaced by echoes, sad to say.

NAVO: I have to say Richard Avedon, Nick Knight and Steven Meisel have inspired many generations of photographers including me, what inspires a Max Vadukul?
VADUKUL: I am wide open to life and its possibilities, inspiration comes from anywhere its infinite. I love history books, strong news journalism like the Guardian Newspaper, nothing fluffy, so for me bring it on. I am a good editor of what fits my frame.

AFRICA

NAVO: Whats the most iconic images that you remember while growing up Max?
VADUKUL: A lot of album art created by Hipnosis. I was really excited by the album art from Pink Floyd to Led Zep, the first time I saw Jumping Jack flash on tv, the video was mind-blowing with the dark guitar riff, the war paint makeup on Mick, unforgettable.

NAVO: What’s your favorite piece of artwork you own?
VADUKUL: In my home I own one piece of photography I bought for my wife, a photograph by Joseph Koudelka, a black dog in b&w sits on my mantel piece.

NAVO: Do you remember how old where you the first time you used a camera?
VADUKUL: I was about ten and I used my father’s Pentax Spotmatic.

NAVO: Why did you become a photographer?
VADUKUL: So many life experiences affect you, like my father taking me on safari’s on the east coast of Africa with a car loaded with telescopes and photographic gears. I got to see a lot of land and he was always taking pictures, so I think the seeds were there. Why?…well I love photography all of it was such a passion that there was no other choice plus it gave me a chance to be independent from tradition. I think I was 13 years old and I knew this is my destiny.

ALEX, ELOISE & NICOLETTA

NAVO: What does your love ones think about your craft and your profession?
VADUKUL: My parents were very proud when I had finally made it, but they were very grounded. I have two 20-year-old twins Alex, Eloise and my wife Nicoletta they look at everything and will be very harsh on the critique, no ego inflating stuff and we enjoy looking at the work, but it’s not an obsession for them they have their own lives, I think they know it’s very tough, I would say one of the most difficult professions to hold, so each to his own.

NAVO: What is your favorite part in being a photographer Max?
VADUKUL: Just to get my images published the way I see it is a thrill and honestly I love every aspect of my work, I simply love it .

NAVO: What do you think of the disappearance of a lot of magazines (367 magazines closed in 2009) for the past years?
VADUKUL: Too many magazines and it got to be like the Cane frogs in Australia just had to be a cull, my eyes would go blind at a magazine store so many and so much rubbish, I think less is more and quality will stand. All the echoes and hanger-ons will eventually die.

WHITE TIGER

NAVO: What’s an ideal regular vacation for you?
VADUKUL: Vacation for me is decompression time. I simply veg out, usually just by the ocean, reading, scuba diving, usually with the family.

NAVO: What’s the last book you’ve read lately and what is it about?
VADUKUL: “White Tiger “ by Aravind Adiga, it’s a dark comedy about a ‘social entrepreneur’ who committed murder. Set in modern India (Bangalore) and it’s a roller coaster of a book, very unsettling and dark. One of the best books I have read  and I’m sure they will produce a movie out of this.

NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite films and why?
VADUKUL: 1. ‘Wrath of God’ by Werner Herzog (1972), it’s the search for man’s lust for gold and a journey into a hopeless void, stunning photography. 2. ‘Peeping Tom’ by Michael Powell (1960), my favorite director because its one of the most disturbing films upto this day, a snuff movie stylized, destroyed the directors career. 3. ‘Lawrence of Arabia’ by Sir David Lean (1962), it’s a remarkable study of a perplexing character. I love all of David Lean’s films.

NAVO: I have to say the film Lawrence of Arabia is one of the reasons I was intrigued by the arab culture and I enjoyed living in the cities of Riyadh, Dammam and Dubai. Who’s your top 3 favorite Hollywood Icons?
VADUKUL: Clint Eastwood , Betty Davis, and Alfred Hitchcock.

NAVO: What’s your top 3 favorite records of all time Max?
VADUKUL: 1. The Wall, Pink Floyd, 2. Pat Metheny, Offramp, 3. Exile On Main Street, Rolling Stones.

CHARLES DARWIN

NAVO: What can you recommend to the young photographers who wants to make a living doing what you do?
VADUKUL: I do not wish to be didactic, but I would say you have one life just be yourself and do it your way, you can’t be pleasing everyone.

NAVO: If anybody have told me months ago, years ago that one day I’ll be interviewing you, I would say they’re nuts, and now here we are and I want to fish, what do you think about my work? As a young photographer, and as a writer/blogger?
VADUKUL: Well Mr. Navo your website is clean, clear and easy to navigate, clearly you are not a bullshitter, you say it the way it is and your work is to be praised and lifted. It’s a big effort so I think to get to that level of simplicity, you have a terrific website. I enjoyed your interviews and your questions, your life is only as good as the questions you ask, remember that. As a young photographer, I was showing your work to my daughter Eloïse who is 20 and she was like “wow, this guy is really good” and I thought that you have an eye and it’s up to you to be a one-off, so try to work on that.

NAVO: You have photographed a significant numbers of historical figures, if you’ll get a chance to photograph a dead historical figure, who will it be and why?
VADUKUL: Well I’m going to go off track here, I would have loved to have photographed Charles Darwin on his exploration to the Galápagos on the H.M.S. Beagle. Because the sights and the discovery he made would have made an incredible exhibition and because his insight into evolution is the most important discovery since we knew the earth was not flat.

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www.maxvadukul.com/

www.art-dept.com/artists/vadukul/

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Max_Vadukul

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Books
•    Max: Photographs by Max Vadukul. New York: Callaway Publications, 2000.
•    Crazy Horse. New York: Piccolo Press, 2001.

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Related Entry: http://naiveboy.com/2010/01/15/mert-alas-a-fashion-icon-interview-by-navo/

________________________

info@navostudios.com

http://navostudios.com/

©2009 Dangerously Naive

©2009 Naiveboy.com

THE MEAT MARKET: ‘UNCLE’ TERRY RICHARDSON by Navo

(Part 1)

“You will never find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy. We must be cautious.”
– Obi-Wan, Star Wars (1977)

All Images by Terry Richardson, excluding this ones.

Frivolous.

Vain.

Materialistic.

Shallow.

Excessive.

Catty.

Racist.

Sexist.

Agist.

Pretentious.

Superficial.

Playful.

Diva.

Pimp.

Wierd. 

Creepy.

Snub.

Junky.

Sleazy.

Exploitative.

Crazy.

Scandalous.

Dirty.

Stupid.

There are many adjectives we use to describe the fashion industry and those who make their living in it. Can you just imagine a child raised with this kind of adjectives? Wouldn’t he be as fucked-up as fashion photographer Bob Richardson‘s 45 yr old son? Have you seen Terry Richardson‘s Kibosh Book (now $195.75 @ amazon.com, 358 X-rated color images, published in 2005), dozens of shots showing Uncle Terry having a fun-day ejaculating over some top models faces (mouth, ears and eyes) while being photographed with a point and shoot camera? Not pornstars, but high-fashion agency models, the big question here is why those images don’t shock us anymore? Can fashion photographer Steven Klein, Mario Testino, Bruce Weber and other Vogue Magazine favorites like Terry get away shooting some fashion agency model with their very own sperm-facial, publishing it as a photo book and call it ‘HIGH FASHION ART’ for a couple of hundred dollars?

Money’s tight for everyone these days, and it doesn’t exclude the fashion élite, whether you’re wearing Chuck Taylors or Manolo Blahniks, everybody gets up in the morning and puts on some clothes, fashion is a vital part of who we are, whether we admit it or not. Fashion is a social and cultural expression or if we get carried away, could result to the maxed-out credit cards, and could also be a mindless distraction or escape from the ‘real problems’ of the world today.

Thinking about it, what made me fall in love with fashion photography for less than a decade now is actually the words — Teamwork, Creativity, Passion, and Genius, but these days are overshadowed by those aforementioned.

HIGH-FASHION SUICIDE

Do you believe that things happen for a reason?

- Is there a reason a legendary designer like Alexander Mcqueen hanged himself during recession? (hooray for metaphors)
- Is there a reason Anna Wintour (US Vogue editor) swallowed her pride and aggressively rubbing her wrinkled elbows with us commoners, becoming more and more media-friendly these days and sacrificing her image as an “Snub Ice-Queen”?
- Is there a reason the most iconic fashion giants and elites filed for bankruptcy this year like Christian Lacroix, Escada, Fred Leighton, Lambertson Truex, Charles Chang-Lima, Maria Pinto, Eric Gaskins, Yohji Yamamoto to name a few?
- Is there a reason the gods of fashion can’t afford Bryan Park for NY Fashion week anymore?

- Is there a reason 367 magazines closed in 2009, including significant numbers of fashion magazines and the ones that still exist are anorexic in pages and advertisements?

- Is there a reason thousands of fashion retail stores closed down in 2009 alone and more are predicted closing down their business in 2010?

Yes. The fashion world is now facing a reality check on things. The fashion gurus and magazine editors/writers might dismiss this as an economic phase and deny that they are not affected by the global shift of priorities, but the tell-tale signs listed above are evidences of a very dark-future for fashion – consumer’s priorities are becoming more and more realistic and it doesn’t include a $20,000 clutch bag and a $100,000 wedding dress. The fashion stratosphere cares more about diamond encrusted high heel shoes than the earthquake in Chile or Haiti, they care more about Project Runway than why the world’s no# 1 terrorist Osama Bin Laden is still at large and having an R&R in Pakistani cave somewhere, the fashion world is facing an earthquake and terror of its own – the fashion world’s inevitable demise.

UNCLE TERRY

You create a hyped up, overrated industry filled with morally challenged, below average IQ level over-achievers, sprinkle it with cattyness, bitchiness and diva-syndrome and viola, you’ll have a recipe for disaster that is waiting to happen, majority of fashion people are tailor fit for a BRAVO reality show, why? Because reality show stars have to be psychologically imbalanced to begin with and where can you find most people with a.d.d. and all this craziness? The FASHION INDUSTRY. Where they have theyre own government, they have their own queens, they have theyre own kings, and they have theyre own world with a set of rules or lack of rules they play within.

What’s polarizing the fashion blogosphere lately (and female blogosphere taken up arms against)? Two Words – Uncle Terry. One of fashion industry’s favorite son is under attack. Everyone’s seems to be cooperating on this wierd social experiment. But before we open our lips, let the man’s work speak for itself.

THE PERVERTED RINGLEADER

“I think for people in the fashion industry, the way Terry Richardson works has been an open secret for a long time, I think a lot of people tolerate it in public because of his extraordinary power within the industry. In private I think many are very disturbed by his history of behaviour with many of the models he works with.” -  Jenna Sauers, Jezebel fashion editor

“It’s likely that he approaches all girls the same way: gauge the situation, drop some names, take out your trouser monster, and see what you can get them to do.” – Jamie Peck, model who posed for Richardson at 19

So the photographer who has made a career out of seeming like a pervert is actually a pervert? What a shocker! All of us have no idea that Terry Richardson fucks models. Who in the right mind would ever want to fuck a beautiful fashion agency model anyways?  The fashion industry shows young girls with their tits and ass hanging out and now it’s a surprise that an actual photographer bangs them? It’s an industry filled with crazy people and big personalities. The boundaries are different than purely corporate enterprise. It’s not IBM, it’s a business with beautiful girls, sex, and malfeasance. To single out one person as some sort of ringleader is absurd. We traffic in human bodies. Human Meat.

UNCLE BRUCE WEBER

The world has become desensitized to Terry Richardson’s point of view, the Terryworld.  Only in an industry like this that a successful, powerful fashion photographer will always be above scrutiny, and those against him are jealous haters. Some say he’s a Jurgen Teller, Walter Pfieffer, Dov Charney hack.  Some say he’s an overpaid sex addict with a point and shoot while Uncle Terry is laughing all the way to the bank. The genius behind Terry Richardson: Normalizing sexual harassment in fashion and celebrity photography. Anna Wintour approved it, Carine Roitfeld approved it, Tom Ford approved it, Marc Jacobs approved it, countless fashion royalties approved it, even President Obama approved it with a handshake and a thumbs-up (Republican’s will feast on this), now how can it be wrong? It only make sense that the rest of us (the consumers) approve it. What about ‘Uncle’ Bruce Weber? Everybody in the industry knows about the big elephant in the room, it’s also an open-secret, all the sexual conquest of Bruce Weber (whose career spawned for 3 or 4 decades shooting hundreds of nekkid boys every year) are a favorite coffee break topic, why are you calling Uncle Terry the ring leader? This bring us to the true topic that this is not about Terry Richardson, or Uncle Terry, Rie Rasmussen, or Jamie Peck or Bruce Weber, it’s not about sex or sexual harrassment, it’s all about POWER, the person who can blacklist you from the Fashion Industry, the person with the most powerful connections, the person with their fingers hotwired in different buttons, the person who can afford a better lawyer will always triumph and dominate, exhibit A: The Vatican (http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/21/world/europe/21pope.html)

GOVERNMENT APPROVED PERVERSION

Lets checkout Uncle Terry’s Client rosters: Gucci, Sisley, Miu Miu, Chloe, Tom Ford, French Vogue, British Vogue, i-D, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar, Purple, Daniel Day-Lewis, Leonardo DiCaprio, Vincent Gallo, Jay Z, Kanye West, Johnny Knoxville, Karl Lagerfeld, Pharell Williams, Lindsay Lohan, Kate Moss, and President Obama. Uncle Terry admitted in a latest interview, “At first, I’d just want to do a few nude shots, so I’d take off my clothes, too … I’d even give the camera to the model and get her to shoot me for a while. It’s about creating a vibe, getting people relaxed and excited. When that happens you can do anything. I don’t think I’m a sex addict, but I do have issues. Maybe it’s the psychological thing that I was a shy kid, and now I’m this powerful guy with his boner, dominating all these girls”. Terry Richardson is a product of our societies demand for perversed and sexual images, he is a product or a mutated hybrid of capitalism. He brings us to that Terryworld whenever we look and buy his images or the products that his images are selling, we don’t only condone his perverted way of looking at things but we celebrate it, and we are shocked to know that there is a perverted man behind those perverted images? What are you expecting? a Mother Theresa or a Bill Gates would be behind those images? Or a clean-cut catholic priest? Oh sorry, they’re more perverted than an Uncle Terry (they don’t even work in Fashion for God’s sake they only rape 6-year-old boys and girls).

THE MODEL BOOKERS

Who did Terry frantically called (and maybe yelled at) the next day to complain when Supermodel Rie Rasmussen gave a furious tongue-lashing at a Paris fashion event, shaming the powerful photographer? Rie’s Model Agency. One thing is sure, Rie Rasmussen is toast, french toast.

When bloggers tried to reach Terry’s side of the story through his agent, manager and assistant, they didn’t return calls or e-mails. A rep at his agency, Art Partner, told New York Post: “I don’t know anything about this. Terry is on a plane from Paris.” Who are the guardians and so-called protectors of the models? THE MODEL BOOKERS, who would stop sending models to a photographer who’s clients ranges from Gucci, Sisley, Miu Miu, Chloe, Tom Ford, French Vogue, British Vogue, i-D, GQ, Harper’s Bazaar? It’s all business at the end of the day and they use the models to “exchange goods”, like corrupt cops who steals crack from a drug dealer, most of the time the defenders are the oppressors, the Model Bookers sometimes cant help but taste the meat first… literally (but that will be discussed more on THE MEAT MARKET Part 2: THE LIVES OF GAY MALE BOOKERS). For the rest of the world this could be a shocker, but for people like Ana Wintour (the proclaimed god of American Fashion), and all the fashion hipsters, Uncle Terry doesn’t shock them anymore, checkout the Terry Richardson: Kibosh Book ($195.75) and Uncle Terry having a fun-day ejaculating over the top models faces, and these are the models that agreed to be published, I could just imagine the countless girls that didn’t, but actually been shot the same way.

JEALOUS HATERS

At the end of the day, all this talk will lead to Uncle Terry’s day-rate tripling or date-rape tripling? Who wouldn’t be jealous of a Terry Richardson?

All this publicity is only increasing his notoriety and his vision which is Scandal. Frivolous. Vain. Materialistic. Shallow. Excessive. Catty. Racist. Sexist. Agist. Pretentious. Superficial. Playful. Diva. Pimp. Wierd. Creepy. Snub. Junky. Sleazy. Exploitative. Crazy. Scandalous. Dirty. Stupid.

Welcome to the World of Fashion, Who’s your ‘Uncle’ now?

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Related Entry: http://naiveboy.com/2009/11/12/i-want-to-have-sex-with-mr-tom-ford-by-navo/

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